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Kit Improved Flywheel + Flywheel Puller + Gasket For Suzuki LTF 400 Eiger 2002-2007 Arctic Cat 400 Manual 2003-2008

RM22434
RMSTATOR

Kit Improved Flywheel + Flywheel Puller + Gasket For Suzuki LTF 400 Eiger 2002-2007 Arctic Cat 400 Manual 2003-2008

RM22434
RMSTATOR
Exact fit

Availability: Out of stock

Price: CA$355.00

PLEASE NOTE: This kit will not fit automatic transmissions, but only the manual models.

You save 15% off the items price combined, when buying a kit.

Brand new magneto flywheel, flywheel puller, and gasket


This product was featured in ATV Illustrated Magazine
Read the article >

  • All products are tested
  • One year limited warranty
  • All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part

Details

PLEASE NOTE: This kit will not fit automatic transmissions, but only the manual models.

You save 15% off the items price combined, when buying a kit.

Brand new magneto flywheel, flywheel puller, and gasket


This product was featured in ATV Illustrated Magazine
Read the article >

  • All products are tested
  • One year limited warranty
  • All item pictures are accurate; if in doubt do not hesitate to compare our item to your original part

Specifications

Flywheel

Dimensions:

Exterior Diameter: 143 mm
Interior Diameter: 118 mm
Interior Diameter Center Housing: 18 mm
Exterior Diameter Center Housing: 42 mm
Thickness (exterior): 12 mm
Thickness (interior): 13 mm

Flywheel Puller

50 mm x 1.5 Right hand Female

OEM # Replacement

RM22434-R00

Fits models

Installation instructions

Flywheel

Before attempting to start your vehicle adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010’’.

Flywheel Puller

Tips on removing a power sport vehicle flywheel / rotor:

Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.

Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.

We can give you two simple tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. But how do you know if it’s stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don’t use more torque or you might break your wrench.

If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don’t forget your safety glasses.

The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that’s where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Remember: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle, or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:

  • Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
  • Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
  • Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.

With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!

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